Tikka T3 Stocks (4) Tikka T3 Chassis System (21) Tikka T3 Scope Rings and Bases (18) Tikka T3 Bolt Handles and Shrouds (17) Tikka T1x Chassis (3) Tikka T1x Bolt Handles and Shrouds (5) Tikka T1x Scope Bases (2) Winchester 70. Winchester stocks (4) Scope Rings and Bases (18) Howa. Howa Stocks (10) Howa Chassis System (6) Scope Rings. I have T3X Lite and have a few rifles with pachmyr I would agree with the earlier comment of 85-90% the same. You would get a lot more relief by adding a little weight to the stock, adding a slip-over recoil butt pad and/or handloading to choose a powder and a charge load that meets your hunting needs but drops recoil than you will swapping butt pads.
I'm new to precision rifles.Just ordered a new Tikka T3X TAC A1 rifle.A Weaver Tactical 6-30x56, 34mm tube scope will be installed on the rifle. What rings/mounts do you guys recommend?
Everyone recommends to get at least 20 MOA bias on the rigns/mounts.Is there a special barrel 'break-in' procedure for this rifle? Anything else I need to check or adjust before firing it for the first time?Do you guys use any useful accessories on your rifle? Can you recommend a decent bipod? How about a short monopod that attaches to the bottom of the stock? Yes, it's a TAC rifle. I mistakenly bought 0 MOA Vortex Precision rings.
Everyone advised to get something with at least 20 MOA scope bias for this rifle. One guy said that 20 MOA was not enough for distances over 1,000 yards. I seriously doubt I will ever shoot past 500 yards but it's nice to have that capability. I don't know how much adjustment this scope has. Like i said, this is all new to me and there is so much conflicting information on the internet.
The more I read, the more I get confused. LOL20 MOA bias is easy for a regular rifle. Just get a 20 MOA base.
This TAC rifle already comes with a 0 MOA base. It probably makes more sense to get a single piece, 20 MOA scope mount. I've got a Tikka T3X Tac A1 in 6.5CM and here's how I set it up:Rings: Steiner 34mm T-series Extra High Rings (1.35')Scope: Nightforce NXS 5.5-22x56Bipod: Atlas BT-10Rear bag: Yes, I use one.Given that the stock is user adjustable to height over bore, ring height is less of an issue. The receiver scope base it comes with is 0 MOA. The Nightforce I use has enough travel to dial out as far as I need it in adjustments alone.Congratulations on your new rifle.
I'm sure it'll be a good shooter if it's anything like mine. Originally Posted By ianb1116:I've got a Tikka T3X Tac A1 in 6.5CM and here's how I set it up:Rings: Steiner 34mm T-series Extra High Rings (1.35')Scope: Nightforce NXS 5.5-22x56Bipod: Atlas BT-10Rear bag: Yes, I use one.Given that the stock is user adjustable to height over bore, ring height is less of an issue.
The receiver scope base it comes with is 0 MOA. The Nightforce I use has enough travel to dial out as far as I need it in adjustments alone.Congratulations on your new rifle. I'm sure it'll be a good shooter if it's anything like mine. View QuoteThanks. The rifle should be here in a day or two.I'm tempted to use 0 MOA Vortex Precision, 1.45' rings that I already have. There are no shooting ranges to shoot past 300 Yards within several hundred miles from here.BTW, did you rifle come with 2 magazines included from the factory?
I was just reading the Q&A on GrabAGun's website. They claim that it comes with only 1 magazine from the factory. Mags are very expensive for this rifle. I always assumed that 2 magazines should be included with a new TAc A1 rifle. Now I wonder if they even included a muzzle break that I was expecting to be included too, based on what I was told by all guys who bough the same rifle. Originally Posted By Gyprat:Thanks.
The rifle should be here in a day or two.I'm tempted to use 0 MOA Vortex Precision, 1.45' rings that I already have. There are no shooting ranges to shoot past 300 Yards within several hundred miles from here.BTW, did you rifle come with 2 magazines included from the factory? I was just reading the Q&A on GrabAGun's website. They claim that it comes with only 1 magazine from the factory. Mags are very expensive for this rifle. I always assumed that 2 magazines should be included with a new TAc A1 rifle.
Now I wonder if they even included a muzzle break that I was expecting to be included too, based on what I was told by all guys who bough the same rifle. View QuoteI was about 5 days too late for this promotion. O well, no biggie. 2 mags is plenty for this kind of rifle.BTW, The rifle came in today. It did come with 2 magazines and a muzzle break.
Sales people at GAG did not know what they were talking about. What a nice rifle. I love the folding stock. There is zero play in it.I decided to get a 1/2', 20 MOA rail riser.
It should be here tomorrow. This will put the front end of the scope (end of sunshade tube) right at about 1/4'- 3/8'above the top of the handguard, with the 20 MOA offset.
I'm guesstimating the 20 MOA offset cause I'm too lazy to do the geometric calculations. It should fit nicely. Cant wait to shoot this little rifle.
Got the scope and a Harris bipod mounted yesterday. They look nice on the rifle. I already had the Harris bipod from another rifle. Sometime I'll upgrade to an Atlas.@TXBO@robpiat@CajunRebel@StromBusa@ianb1116@Wayniac@Sandstorm@mlaterGuys, sorry to bother you with my questions but I could not find the answer anywhere else.
Do any of you guys have the factory supplied muzzle brake mounted on your Tikka's barrel? I tried installing mine but it's very loose on the barrel. I got the 'clamp' screw very tight but the muzzle brake can still be very easily rotated by hand.
It will probably rotate by itself because of barrel vibration during shooting. Is it supposed to be that loose?
I'm afraid to strip the threads on the screw if I make it any tighter. The manual says that the muzzle break must be removed after every shooting session but the clamp screw should be loosened before removal. For barrel break-in, you're going to hear a lot of different opinions and many people will say to just start shooting. It's up to you to decide if you want to spend the extra time for something that you may or may not believe in doing. For me, I did follow this break in on my Tac A1For the first 10 shots, clean the barrel after every shot.For the next 40 shots, clean the barrel after each five shot group.I've got 290 rounds through mine at this point. Here is a target from 9 days ago, showing a '10 shot' group.
That is in quotes because this is 10 shots in two separate 5 shot groups in 2 separate range trips 3 weeks apart. I had put a sticker on the target to cover old holes but it came off on the first shot of the 2nd group. And, this is all with cheap American Gunner ammo. You can imagine what it does with quality ammo.I'm sure some will say it would have shot that way even without break in. Maybe so, maybe no.
Every barrel is different. For me it was worth the extra time. Your groups look fantastic. I doubt I can do this, even with your rifle. I'm learning though.I will follow your break-in procedure. So far, I purchased 80 rounds of 140 gr. Hornady Match ELD ammo as it was on sale at Cabelas.
Perhaps I will buy a few boxes of cheapest available ammo at Wally World for the break-in procedure.I'm still trying to figure out the muzzle brake mounting issue that I mentioned in my previous post. Hopefully I'll get the rifle ready and take it to the range in a few days.Thanks for all the replies guys!
You are the best!!! Your replies really helped me. I think I got it figured out.
The inner bore of the brake is slightly tapered. I split the 'lips' of the clamp end a bit further apart and it allowed me to tighten the brake a bit further in, until it reached horizontal level. Only then, I tightened the screw to keep it in place. Live and learn, I guess.BTW, the muzzle brake appears to be universal. The hole diameter is a lot bigger than it should be for 6.5 CM. It looks bad ass.Thanks for all the help. I love this forum.
I took the rifle to the range today. Got it somewhat sighted at 100 yards. It takes forever to shoot 10 rounds (barrel break-in) if I have to clean the barrel after every round. I've used up well over 100 patches. There was a lot of black crap in the barrel after each shot.The target below was my scope sight in target. The last 3 shots are grouped close together.
It started to rain hard and I had to leave my other target at the range. Overall I'm happy with the rifle. I averaged about 2 MOE with 120 gr. Winchester HP target rounds, at 100 yards.
Some shots were tightly grouped but some were off by 4-5 inches for some reason. Either way, I have never been able to shoot a scoped rifle this good before.Some of you guys shoot 1000 yards but I find it hard to shoot at 100 yards too. It's hard keep a rifle steady enough to keep the cross hairs on target without moving around a lot. I used sandbags, front and back but a slight touch moves the point of aim 5-7 inches, especially when I begin squeezing the trigger. Originally Posted By Gyprat:I took the rifle to the range today. Got it somewhat sighted at 100 yards. It takes forever to shoot 10 rounds (barrel break-in) if I have to clean the barrel after every round.
I've used up well over 100 patches. There was a lot of black crap in the barrel after each shot.The target below was my scope sight in target. The last 3 shots are grouped close together. It started to rain hard and I had to leave my other target at the range.
Overall I'm happy with the rifle. I averaged about 2 MOE with 120 gr. Winchester HP target rounds, at 100 yards.
Some shots were tightly grouped but some were off by 4-5 inches for some reason. Either way, I have never been able to shoot a scoped rifle this good before.Some of you guys shoot 1000 yards but I find it hard to shoot at 100 yards too. It's hard keep a rifle steady enough to keep the cross hairs on target without moving around a lot.
I used sandbags, front and back but a slight touch moves the point of aim 5-7 inches, especially when I begin squeezing the trigger. View QuoteYou need to study up on the fundamentals of rifle marksmanship.Natural Point of AimTrigger controlSight alignmentBreathingFollow thoughHere's a couple things to work on to get that wobble down from 5-7 inches.1) The 5-7 inch wobble in point of aim is caused by trying to force the gun on target with muscle and tension instead of building a position with your natural point of aim. Close your eyes, mount the gun, open your eyes and see where the rifle is pointing compared to the target.
If it is left of the target, don't force it to the target, move your butt to the left. Repeat this left, right, up or down until the rifle naturally settles on the bullseye.2) Dry fire until you can pull the trigger without moving your sight picture.You'll have that thing shooting MOA in no time. Originally Posted By TXBO:You need to study up on the fundamentals of rifle marksmanship.Natural Point of AimTrigger controlSight alignmentBreathingFollow thoughHere's a couple things to work on to get that wobble down from 5-7 inches.1) The 5-7 inch wobble in point of aim is caused by trying to force the gun on target with muscle and tension instead of building a position with your natural point of aim. Close your eyes, mount the gun, open your eyes and see where the rifle is pointing compared to the target. If it is left of the target, don't force it to the target, move your butt to the left.
Repeat this left, right, up or down until the rifle naturally settles on the bullseye.2) Dry fire until you can pull the trigger without moving your sight picture.You'll have that thing shooting MOA in no time. View QuoteThanks. I appreciate your advice.
It's a learning curve for me. Practical experience can't be replaced with theory books. I thought I knew all the basics and more but I was wrong. Good thing is that I have a good rifle now, capable of doing sub-MOA shots. Now it's a matter of practice, maybe some guidance. Perhaps taking a training class will be beneficial too.
I also need to find a load that works best for this rifle. Of course, I'll be reloading and need to purchase a set of dies for this caliber.Again, I appreciate all of the replies. Thank you guys! To some people this will seem extreme.Barrel break in:Fire two shots.
Remove bolt, Swab barrel from the rear with sweets solvent on a brush 50 passes. Then one patch of alcohol to rid the barrel of the sweets solvent. Then push through about 7-10 patches until clean.Re-install bolt, Fire two shots. Remove bolt, Swab barrel from the rear with sweets solvent on a brush 50 passes. Then one patch of alcohol to rid the barrel of the sweets solvent.
Then push through about 7-10 patches until clean.Do this until you have fired 20 total rounds. I will take an hour or so.The Tikka’s guarantee 1/2 MOA accuracy. Mine gets 1/4 MOA all day after barrel break in I have described above.Here is my rifle in 6.5 CM. It wears a Nightforce NEF 5X22 with MOAR T reticle, and a mono pod for the rear. View Quoteyes, that is extreme break in approach.
Tikka's manual includes their break in recommendation, just follow that.Tikka guarantees 1 MOA, not 1/2 MOA.Impressive to get 1/4 MOA groups all day long for every 5 shot group. How many groups do you shoot each outing?
Happen to have a pic of a single target with all groups on it?Tikka's are great rifles and have great accuracy. My TAC A1 shoots very well and impressed me when stretching it out to 1000 yards and then varying at any ranges in between with great repeatability. Could bounce between 1000, 400, 600, 300, 1000 and be dead on for MOA size targets at each range. But saying they are 1/2 MOA guarantee of 1/4 MOA all day long with factory ammo definitely comes across as a bit of an exaggeration. No exaggeration is needed on this rifle though, it's a hell of shooter especially at its price point from the factory.
Quote:From the distance, it looks like any normal TAC A1, but this BLK LBL can dance and swivel for you – and the bipod is always with you.quote:The BLK LBL Bipod’s innovative barrel-through design. allows the rifle to sit ‘in’ the bipod, rather than ‘on’ it, with the center of rotation of the bipod effectively centered on the bore, making it inherently more stable.
The result is a balanced rifle without the top-heavy tendencies that can come from large optics. The ball and socket joint provides fluid movement for improved target acquisition and accuracy. With 40 degrees of pan and 15 degrees of cant in each direction adjusting leg length to level your scope is a thing of the past.quote:Specifications Caliber 308 Winchester Twist: 1:11? Barrel Length: 24?
Weight: 5.1 kg. Caliber 6.5 Creedmoor Twist: 1:8? Barrel Length: 24? Weight: 5.1 kg. There was a company (Lee Six??) prob 20 yrs ago that made synthetic replacement rifle stocks that had a bipod built into the forend, but I don't think their bipod was as nice. On a side note, I'd like someone to explain to me the advantages a 'chassis' rifle over a conventional rifle.
I can easily get a minute of action bolt action rifle w/ a 22' barrel, synthetic stock, nice scope and the option of a detachable mag that weighs 8-9#. I'm not trolling, just don't understand the niche for a 'chassis' rifle. Quote:only about 1.2-1.3lb weight difference between the materials on a 24'.I was going off below, but I'll waiver to you since you have one. Quote:For example, an all-steel M24 barrel weighs about 6.2 lbs, depending on the caliber of hole.
A quick look at my blog reveals that a 26' Proof Research Sendero weighs in at just 3.2 lbs, a full 3 pounds lighter! In fact, the CF barrel is only about the same weight as a Remington 700 magnum sporter barrel.That's from stockys and an m24 profile, I just kind of guessed. Anyways, not really a huge deal, just saying if Tikka used a carbon barrel it would be alot closer.
I'd like to see a comparison with the fix. I bet the fix has a leg up in features. Quick barrel change would be obvious, but if the tikka has all the tools features it'll be a pretty solid gun. Quote:was going off below, but I'll waiver to you since you have one. Quote: For example, an all-steel M24 barrel weighs about 6.2 lbs, depending on the caliber of hole.
A quick look at my blog reveals that a 26' Proof Research Sendero weighs in at just 3.2 lbs, a full 3 pounds lighter! In fact, the CF barrel is only about the same weight as a Remington 700 magnum sporter barrel. That's from stockys and an m24 profile, I just kind of guessed.i guess contour comes into play. I looked at Proof's replacement barrels for different guns and compared the weights at different lengths. That seemed to be the average quote:I'd like to see a comparison with the fix.
I bet the fix has a leg up in features. Quick barrel change would be obvious, but if the tikka has all the tools features it'll be a pretty solid gun.Fix has more features, but it costs twice as much lol. Cost benefit analysis.